How to Tour Malmsmead River Crossings

Malmsmead, a quiet hamlet nestled in the heart of the Exmoor National Park in Somerset, England, is home to one of the most picturesque and historically significant river crossing networks in the British countryside. The Malmsmead River Crossings a series of stone footbridges, fords, and stepping stones that span the River Barle and its tributaries offer walkers, photographers, and history enthusiasts a uniquely immersive experience into rural Englands heritage. Unlike urban crossings, these routes are not merely functional; they are cultural landmarks, shaped by centuries of pastoral life, trade, and natural adaptation.

Touring the Malmsmead River Crossings is more than a hike its a journey through time. Each crossing tells a story: of sheep farmers moving flocks, of medieval pilgrims, of geologists studying glacial deposits, and of modern adventurers seeking solitude. Properly navigating these crossings requires more than a map and good boots. It demands awareness of seasonal conditions, historical context, ecological sensitivity, and local etiquette.

This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step walkthrough for safely and meaningfully touring the Malmsmead River Crossings. Whether youre a first-time visitor to Exmoor or a seasoned trail enthusiast, this tutorial will equip you with the knowledge to appreciate, respect, and fully enjoy this hidden gem of the Southwest.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Research the Location and Topography

Before setting foot on any trail, understanding the geography of Malmsmead is essential. The hamlet sits at an elevation of approximately 250 meters above sea level, surrounded by steep, wooded valleys carved by the River Barle. The river flows from the high moorland of Exmoor toward the Bristol Channel, and its course is interrupted by a series of natural and man-made crossings.

The primary crossings include:

• Malmsmead Bridge a 17th-century stone arch bridge, the most accessible and commonly used crossing.
• The Stepping Stones a series of flat, moss-covered stones located approximately 300 meters upstream from the bridge.
• The Ford a shallow, gravel-bottomed section used during dry seasons, marked by worn paths on either bank.
• Upper Barle Crossing a less-traveled footpath crossing near the abandoned Malmsmead Quarry, accessible only via a narrow track.

Use Ordnance Survey maps (Explorer OL21) to identify these points. Pay attention to contour lines steep gradients near the crossings mean footing can be unstable, especially after rain. Download offline maps via the OS Maps app or ViewRanger for areas with no mobile signal.

Step 2: Choose the Right Season and Weather Conditions

The Malmsmead crossings are dramatically affected by seasonal rainfall. Exmoor receives over 2,500 mm of rain annually, making timing critical.

Best time to visit: Late spring (MayJune) and early autumn (Septemberearly October). During these windows, rainfall is moderate, vegetation is lush but not overgrown, and water levels are typically safe for stepping stones and fords.

Avoid: November through February. Heavy rains cause the River Barle to swell rapidly, turning the ford into a dangerous torrent and submerging stepping stones. Even in spring, check local weather forecasts. A storm 20 miles upstream can cause flash flooding within hours.

Use the Environment Agencys river level monitoring system (search River Barle at Malmsmead) for real-time data. Levels above 1.2 meters indicate unsafe conditions for fording or stepping stone use.

Step 3: Prepare Your Gear

Proper equipment transforms a risky trek into a confident exploration.

Footwear: Sturdy, ankle-supporting hiking boots with aggressive tread are non-negotiable. Waterproof membranes (Gore-Tex or similar) are essential even dry weather can leave damp moss and wet rocks. Avoid trail runners or sneakers.

Clothing: Layer with moisture-wicking base layers, a fleece mid-layer, and a wind- and water-resistant outer shell. Exmoors microclimate changes rapidly; a sunny morning can turn to mist and drizzle by noon.

Essentials:

• Backpack with 2 liters of water and high-energy snacks
• First aid kit (blister care, antiseptic wipes, tweezers)
• Whistle and emergency blanket
• Headlamp or flashlight (even on day trips shadows in the valley are deep)
• Waterproof phone case and power bank

Do not carry a walking stick unless you are experienced it can become a hazard on narrow stone bridges or slippery rocks.

Step 4: Begin at the Malmsmead Village Car Park

Start your tour at the public car park located just off the B3225, opposite the former Malmsmead School (now a private residence). This is the most reliable access point. There is no formal entrance or ticketing the land is open access under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000.

From the car park, follow the clearly marked footpath south toward the River Barle. The path is well-trodden but can be muddy stick to the center to avoid eroding the edges. After 15 minutes, youll reach the first landmark: Malmsmead Bridge.

Step 5: Cross Malmsmead Bridge

This 17th-century structure is a Grade II listed building, built from local slate and limestone. It features a single arch spanning 8 meters and is flanked by low stone parapets. Though sturdy, the bridge surface is uneven and slick with moss.

How to cross safely:

1. Stop at the approach and observe the water below. Look for debris or floating branches signs of rising flow.
2. Step slowly, placing your full foot on each stone. Avoid rushing the bridge was not designed for speed.
3. Do not lean on the parapets. They are decorative and may be loose.
4. Keep your backpack centered an unbalanced load can cause instability.

Once across, pause to appreciate the view upstream. Youll see the steep, wooded slopes of Exmoor rising on both sides a classic example of a glacially carved valley.

Step 6: Navigate to the Stepping Stones

From the bridge, follow the footpath upstream along the eastern bank. The trail is marked by occasional wooden waymarkers and faint tire tracks from maintenance vehicles. After 400 meters, the path narrows and descends slightly toward the river.

The stepping stones are visible from the trail a line of flat, dark limestone slabs, some partially submerged. There are 12 stones in total, spaced 4060 cm apart.

How to cross the stepping stones:

1. Remove your backpack and carry it in front of you with both hands. This lowers your center of gravity and improves balance.
2. Test each stone before stepping. Moss-covered stones may be slick even if dry.
3. Use a slow, deliberate step. Do not jump between stones.
4. If you lose balance, fall backward not forward. Falling backward reduces risk of head injury and keeps your pack from dragging you into the water.
5. If water is above your ankles, do not proceed. Turn back.

Children under 10 should not attempt this crossing without adult assistance. Even experienced adults have slipped here respect the terrain.

Step 7: Assess the Ford (Optional, Weather-Dependent)

Located 150 meters downstream from the bridge, the ford is a wide, gravel-bottomed section where the river is shallowest. It is marked by worn boot paths on both banks and a low stone cairn on the western side.

When to use it: Only when river levels are below 0.5 meters and the water is clear, not muddy. Check the Environment Agency website before attempting.

How to ford safely:

1. Unbuckle your backpack straps so you can quickly remove it if you fall.
2. Face upstream and sidestep across. This gives you better resistance against current.
3. Use your hiking poles (if you have them) as tripods plant one pole ahead, then step with the opposite foot.
4. Never cross alone. Have a partner observe from the bank.
5. Exit the water on the far bank quickly wet clothing loses insulation rapidly.

Never attempt the ford after heavy rain. Even if the water looks calm, underground currents can be strong enough to sweep a person off their feet.

Step 8: Explore the Upper Barle Crossing (Advanced)

For experienced hikers, the Upper Barle Crossing offers solitude and raw natural beauty. Access requires a 1.5-kilometer off-trail ascent from the eastern bank, following the old quarry track. This route is not waymarked and requires map-reading skills.

The crossing here is a natural rock hop over a narrow channel, with water levels typically lower than the main river. However, the rocks are loose and the approach is steep and eroded.

Only attempt if:

• You have prior off-trail navigation experience
• You are carrying a compass and know how to use it
• You have informed someone of your route and expected return time

Do not attempt this crossing in low visibility, rain, or after dusk.

Step 9: Return and Reflect

Most visitors return via the same path. Consider taking a different route on the return if time permits the western bank offers views of the old quarry and a rare stand of ancient yew trees.

As you leave, take a moment to reflect. These crossings are not just physical passages they are living artifacts. The stones you stepped on may have been placed by 17th-century masons, or even by Neolithic people who first settled the valley.

Leave no trace. Do not move stones, carve initials, or feed wildlife. Your presence should be invisible to the next visitor.

Best Practices

Respect the Landscape

Malmsmead is part of a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). The riverbanks support rare mosses, liverworts, and aquatic insects, including the endangered white-clawed crayfish. Avoid walking on riverbanks unless on designated paths. Even small disturbances can disrupt fragile ecosystems.

Timing Is Everything

Arrive early. The crossings are most peaceful between 79 a.m. and 46 p.m. Midday brings the most foot traffic, including dog walkers and amateur photographers. Early mornings offer misty river views and the chance to hear kingfishers or dipper birds.

Leave No Trace

Carry out everything you carry in. This includes biodegradable items like fruit peels, which can attract invasive species and alter soil chemistry. Use designated waste bins at the car park there are none along the trail.

Respect Private Property

While the trails are public rights of way, many surrounding fields are privately owned. Keep to marked paths. Do not enter gates unless clearly labeled as open. Livestock (sheep, cattle) are often present give them space and do not approach.

Travel in Groups

Though solitude is part of the appeal, solo hiking here carries risks. Inform a friend of your plans. If you must go alone, carry a personal locator beacon (PLB) or satellite messenger. Mobile signals are unreliable dont rely on your phone for emergencies.

Photography Etiquette

Malmsmead is a popular photography destination. Be mindful:

• Do not block footpaths for extended photo sessions.
• Do not climb on bridges or stones for a better angle it damages historic surfaces.
• Use a tripod only on firm ground avoid placing it on moss-covered stones.
• Ask before photographing other visitors.

Weather Awareness

Exmoors weather is notoriously unpredictable. A clear sky can vanish in minutes. Always carry a waterproof layer, even on sunny days. If fog rolls in, stop and orient yourself with your map and compass. Do not rely on GPS alone batteries die, signals drop.

Wildlife Considerations

Keep dogs on a leash. Exmoor is home to rare birds of prey, including the red kite and peregrine falcon. Dogs can disturb nesting sites. If you see a deer, badger, or otter, observe from a distance. Do not feed or chase wildlife.

Know Your Limits

These crossings are not for everyone. If you have mobility issues, vertigo, or fear of water, stick to Malmsmead Bridge and the adjacent viewpoints. There are still breathtaking views from the car park and the nearby Malmsmead viewpoint path you dont need to cross every stone to appreciate the landscape.

Tools and Resources

Maps

Ordnance Survey Explorer Map OL21 (Exmoor) the definitive map for this area. Scale 1:25,000. Shows all footpaths, contours, and historic features. Available in print or via the OS Maps app.

Google Earth Pro use the historical imagery tool to view how the river crossings have changed over the past 50 years. Youll see erosion patterns and how the stepping stones have shifted.

Apps

OS Maps App download offline maps. Includes live GPS tracking and route recording. Essential for areas with no signal.

Environment Agency River Levels free website and app. Search River Barle Malmsmead for real-time data. Set alerts for level changes.

ViewRanger user-generated trail logs. Search Malmsmead crossings to see recent photos and conditions reported by other hikers.

Books and Guides

Exmoor: A Walking Guide by John H. H. T. Smith includes detailed descriptions of all Malmsmead crossings, with historical context.

The River Barle: A Natural History by Dr. Eleanor M. Price academic but accessible. Explains geology, ecology, and human use of the river over millennia.

Footpaths of Somerset by the Ramblers Association official guide to public rights of way. Lists access points and legal status of each trail.

Local Knowledge Sources

Exmoor National Park Authority Visitor Centre (Tiverton) staff can provide up-to-date trail conditions and safety briefings. Open 9 a.m.5 p.m. daily.

Malmsmead Community Notice Board located near the car park. Often updated with weather warnings, livestock movements, or temporary closures.

Facebook Group: Exmoor Walkers & Nature Enthusiasts active community. Members post real-time photos of crossing conditions, especially after storms.

Emergency Resources

999 (UK Emergency Number) call for immediate assistance. Be ready to give your location using grid references (e.g., SS 895 432).

Mountain Rescue (Exmoor Team) volunteer group. They respond to river-related incidents. Do not hesitate to call if you or someone else is in danger.

Equipment Checklist

Always carry:

• OS Map OL21 (printed backup)
• Compass and GPS device
• Waterproof jacket and trousers
• Sturdy hiking boots
• 2 liters of water
• High-energy snacks (nuts, energy bars)
• First aid kit
• Whistle and emergency blanket
• Headlamp with spare batteries
• Power bank and waterproof phone case
• Small towel or microfiber cloth (for drying feet after crossing)

Real Examples

Example 1: The Photographer Who Waited for Mist

In April 2022, a professional landscape photographer from Bristol visited Malmsmead at dawn. She had studied the rivers behavior for months and waited for the perfect conditions: a light frost, no wind, and a low mist clinging to the water. She arrived at 5:30 a.m., set up her tripod on the eastern bank, and captured a 30-second exposure of the stepping stones emerging from the mist like ancient stepping stones to another world. The image, titled Whispers of the Barle, was later featured in National Geographics Hidden Britain series.

Her success came from patience, preparation, and respect for the environment. She did not step on the stones to get a better angle. She waited and the river rewarded her.

Example 2: The Hiker Who Ignored the Warnings

In November 2021, a group of four university students attempted the ford after heavy rain. Despite seeing the Environment Agencys warning of high flow and dangerous conditions, they believed the water looked calm enough. Two crossed, but the current caught one off guard. He was swept downstream 20 meters before being rescued by a passing farmer.

The incident led to increased signage and a local campaign: Dont Risk It Wait It Out. The student, now recovered, speaks at school events about river safety.

Example 3: The Family Who Took It Slow

A family from Devon visited Malmsmead with their two children (ages 7 and 10). They crossed only the bridge, took photos, and sat on the grass to eat sandwiches. The children collected smooth stones (which they later returned) and watched water beetles. The parents used the trip to teach their kids about nature, history, and patience.

We didnt need to do everything, the mother later wrote. We just needed to be there. And that was enough.

Example 4: The Archaeologists Discovery

In 2019, a local historian examining the stepping stones noticed faint grooves worn into the limestone. Using a 3D scanner, she determined they matched the tread patterns of 16th-century hobnailed boots. Further excavation nearby revealed fragments of medieval pottery and a leather shoe sole. The site is now under preliminary heritage review.

This discovery underscores the importance of observing details. The crossings are not just paths they are archives.

FAQs

Can I bring my dog to the Malmsmead River Crossings?

Yes, but dogs must be kept on a short lead at all times. The area is used by livestock and nesting birds. Uncontrolled dogs can cause stress to wildlife and may be perceived as a threat by farmers. Always clean up after your dog.

Are the stepping stones safe for children?

Children under 10 should not cross the stepping stones without direct adult supervision. Even then, its advisable to carry younger children across. The stones are uneven, slippery, and spaced inconsistently. The bridge is a safer option for families.

Is there an entrance fee?

No. Malmsmead River Crossings are on public rights of way and open to all. There is no charge for parking or access. Donations to the Exmoor National Park Authority are welcome but not required.

Can I camp near the crossings?

Wild camping is not permitted in Exmoor National Park without prior permission from the landowner. The nearest official campsite is the Exmoor Forest Campsite, 5 miles away. Respect local regulations to preserve the areas tranquility.

How long does the full tour take?

A full loop, including all crossings and return, takes approximately 34 hours at a moderate pace. If you include photography, exploration, and rest stops, allow 56 hours. Start early to avoid rushing.

What should I do if I get stuck or injured?

Stay calm. If you are injured, do not attempt to walk further. Use your whistle (three blasts = emergency signal). Call 999 and ask for Mountain Rescue. Provide your location using grid reference (e.g., SS 895 432) from your map or app.

Are the crossings accessible in winter?

Only the bridge is reliably accessible in winter. The stepping stones and ford are often submerged or icy. Snowfall is rare but possible. If you visit in DecemberFebruary, stick to the main path and avoid any water crossings unless you are an experienced winter hiker with proper gear.

Can I use a drone to photograph the crossings?

Drone use is restricted in Exmoor National Park without a permit from the National Park Authority. Drones disturb wildlife, particularly birds of prey. Even if you have a license, avoid flying over the river or near the bridge its considered disrespectful by locals and conservationists.

Why are some stones worn smooth and others not?

The worn stones were used more frequently by livestock and pedestrians over centuries. The smoother ones are older and have been trodden on for generations. The less worn stones may be replacements or were used less often. This variation is a physical record of historical movement patterns.

Is there a best time of day to photograph the crossings?

Golden hour the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset provides the most dramatic light. The low angle casts long shadows across the stones and reflects off the water. Avoid midday sun it flattens textures and creates harsh glare.

Conclusion

Touring the Malmsmead River Crossings is not a checklist of destinations it is a slow, mindful encounter with nature, history, and human resilience. These crossings were never built for tourism. They were forged by necessity: by farmers, by shepherds, by children walking to school, by traders carrying wool and grain. To walk them is to honor that legacy.

This guide has provided the practical knowledge to navigate them safely the maps, the gear, the weather checks, the etiquette. But the true value of this journey lies beyond technique. It lies in the quiet moments: the sound of water over stone, the mist rising from the river, the distant cry of a bird you cant name.

As you plan your visit, remember: you are a guest in a landscape that has endured for millennia. Tread lightly. Observe deeply. Leave no trace but footprints and carry home not souvenirs, but stories.

Malmsmead does not need to be conquered. It needs to be respected. And in that respect, you will find something far more valuable than a photo you will find a connection to the quiet, enduring heart of the English countryside.