How to Drive the South Exmoor Coast
How to Drive the South Exmoor Coast The South Exmoor Coast is one of Britain’s most breathtaking and least crowded coastal stretches, running from the rugged cliffs of Lynmouth and Lynton in the north to the sweeping sands of Porlock Bay and the historic port of Watchet in the south. Unlike the more commercialized southern English coastlines, this region offers raw natural beauty, winding narrow l
How to Drive the South Exmoor Coast
The South Exmoor Coast is one of Britains most breathtaking and least crowded coastal stretches, running from the rugged cliffs of Lynmouth and Lynton in the north to the sweeping sands of Porlock Bay and the historic port of Watchet in the south. Unlike the more commercialized southern English coastlines, this region offers raw natural beauty, winding narrow lanes, dramatic headlands, and secluded coves that feel untouched by time. Driving the South Exmoor Coast is not merely a journey from point A to point Bits an immersive experience that blends geology, history, and wildlife into a single, unforgettable road trip. Whether you're a local seeking a new perspective or an international visitor drawn to Englands wilder shores, mastering how to drive the South Exmoor Coast requires more than just a GPS. It demands preparation, awareness, and respect for the landscape. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step roadmap to navigating this scenic route safely, efficiently, and meaningfully.
Step-by-Step Guide
Plan Your Route in Advance
Before you turn the ignition, map out your route with intention. The primary coastal road is the A39, often called the Atlantic Highway, which runs parallel to the coast from Minehead to Lynmouth. However, the true magic lies in the smaller B-roads and unclassified lanes that branch off toward the shoreline. Key segments to include are:
- A39 from Minehead to Lynton/Lynmouth
- B3227 from Lynton to Lynmouth (the famous cliff railway road)
- B3223 from Lynton to Porlock Weir
- B3191 from Porlock to Watchet
- Unmarked lanes leading to St. Donats, Combe Martin, and the Exmoor National Park coastal footpaths
Use a detailed Ordnance Survey map (OS Explorer OL9 or OL20) or a GPS app like ViewRanger or OS Maps, which allow offline access. Avoid relying solely on Google Maps, as it often misroutes vehicles onto unsuitable narrow lanes or private tracks. Print a physical backupsignal loss is common in deep valleys and behind high cliffs.
Choose the Right Vehicle
While a standard sedan can manage the A39, the coastal backroads demand more. A compact SUV or high-clearance hatchback is ideal. Avoid low-slung sports cars, large RVs, or trailersmany lanes are less than 3 meters wide, with overhanging hedges, stone walls, and blind corners. Four-wheel drive is not mandatory but highly beneficial during winter months when rain turns gravel verges into mud traps.
Check your vehicles condition before departure: tires (with adequate tread), brakes, lights, and fluid levels. There are few service stations between Minehead and Watchet, and breakdown assistance can take over an hour to arrive in remote areas.
Start Early and Avoid Peak Hours
Begin your drive between 7:00 AM and 9:00 AM to avoid congestion from tour buses, school runs, and weekend visitors. The villages of Lynton, Lynmouth, and Porlock Weir become bottlenecks after 11:00 AM, especially in summer. Early starts also grant you the best light for photography and the quietest experience with wildlifered deer, otters, and seabirds are most active in the morning.
Navigate the Cliffside Lanes with Caution
Several stretches of road cling precariously to the cliff edge. The most notorious are:
- The stretch between Lynton and Lynmouth (B3227), where the road drops sharply and has no guardrails in places
- The curve near St. Donats, where the hillside is unstable and prone to landslides after heavy rain
- The descent into Porlock Weir, a steep, winding lane with sharp bends and limited visibility
Always drive slowlyno faster than 20 mph on these sections. Use your headlights even in daylight to increase visibility to oncoming traffic. Watch for sheep, cyclists, and pedestrians who may emerge suddenly from footpaths. Never stop on blind curves. If you encounter a vehicle coming the other way on a narrow lane, one must reverse to a passing place. Use your hazard lights to signal youre waiting to yield.
Respect the Passing Places
Passing places are not suggestionsthey are lifelines. On single-track roads, youll find marked pull-outs every 100300 meters. If you see a vehicle approaching, move into the nearest passing place immediately. If youre behind another vehicle, wait patiently. Do not honk. Do not attempt to squeeze past. This is not just etiquette; its safety protocol. Many accidents on the South Exmoor Coast occur when drivers misjudge the width of the road or pressure others into unsafe maneuvers.
Stop at Designated Viewpoints Only
While the views are irresistible, parking illegally or on grass verges damages fragile ecosystems and blocks emergency access. Use official parking areas such as:
- Lynmouth Foreland Point Car Park (free, with toilets)
- Porlock Weir Harbour Car Park (Pay & Display, limited spaces)
- St. Donats Viewpoint (small gravel lot, well-signed)
- Combe Martin Beach Car Park (National Trust, seasonal fees)
Never park on the road shoulder, especially near bends or hill crests. In summer, parking enforcement is active, and fines can exceed 100. Use the National Trust and Exmoor National Park Authority apps to locate real-time availability.
Plan for Fuel, Food, and Water
There are no petrol stations between Minehead and Porlock. Fill up in Minehead, Watchet, or Lynmouth. The last reliable fuel point before the remote stretch is the BP station on the A39 near Blackmoor Gate. Carry at least 3 liters of water per person, especially in summer. Snacks and sandwiches are available in Porlock and Lynton, but options are limited and expensive. Pack a picnicmany coastal spots have picnic tables, and eating with a view of the Bristol Channel is a highlight.
Check Weather and Tides Daily
Coastal weather changes rapidly. Fog can roll in within minutes, reducing visibility to near zero. Rain makes roads slick and increases landslide risk. Always check the Met Office forecast for Exmoor before departure. Use the Exmoor National Park weather station online for hyperlocal updates.
Tides are critical if you plan to walk to caves or rock formations. At high tide, the path to the famous Wine Glass Bay near Porlock is submerged. The Cave of the Winds near Lynmouth is only accessible at low tide. Consult tide tables from the UK Hydrographic Office or use the Tide Times app. Never attempt to cross flooded roadsTurn Around, Dont Drown applies here as much as in the U.S.
Document Your Journey Responsibly
Take photos, but dont climb on cliffs or disturb wildlife. Many specieslike the rare Exmoor pony, puffins, and choughsnest in the cliffs between March and August. Use a telephoto lens. Avoid drone use without a Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) permit, which is rarely granted for this protected landscape. Respect quiet zones: Exmoor is a Dark Sky Reserve, and light pollution from phone screens or flashlights can disrupt nocturnal wildlife.
Best Practices
Drive with Patience, Not Speed
The South Exmoor Coast is not a racecourse. Speed limits are posted at 3040 mph on main roads and 20 mph on coastal lanes, but even these are too fast for the conditions. The road surface is often uneven, with loose gravel, potholes, and hidden ruts. Drive as slowly as necessary to maintain control. The slower you go, the more youll see: a buzzard circling overhead, a seal bobbing in the surf, or the glint of sea spray catching the sun.
Adopt the One Car Width Rule
If youre unsure whether two vehicles can pass, assume they cannot. Err on the side of caution. Pull into a passing place even if you think you have room. This simple rule prevents gridlock and reduces stress for everyone on the road.
Minimize Distractions
Put your phone on Do Not Disturb. Use voice-guided navigation only if mounted securely. The scenery is captivating, but distractions are dangerous. If you want to take a photo or check your route, pull over safely. Many accidents occur when drivers glance away from the road for just two seconds.
Respect Local Communities
These are working villages, not theme parks. Residents rely on these roads for daily lifeschool buses, deliveries, emergency services. Avoid blocking driveways, gateways, or bus stops. Keep noise low, especially in the evenings. Do not leave litter, even food scrapsseagulls and foxes will scavenge, and this disrupts natural feeding patterns.
Prepare for Seasonal Variations
Summer (JuneAugust): Long days, warm temperatures, but crowded. Book accommodation early. Expect queues at popular viewpoints.
Autumn (SeptemberNovember): Fewer crowds, vibrant foliage, and stormy seas perfect for dramatic photography. Roads may be slick with fallen leaves.
Winter (DecemberFebruary): Short days, potential snow on higher ground, and frequent gales. Some lanes may close temporarily due to landslides. Carry chains if traveling in January or February.
Spring (MarchMay): Wildflowers bloom, seabirds return, and the coast is quiet. Ideal for solitude and birdwatching. Watch for newborn lambs near roadside fences.
Know Your Limits
If youre uncomfortable with narrow, winding roads, consider hiring a local guide or joining a small-group tour. Theres no shame in choosing an alternative. The beauty of the South Exmoor Coast is not in the speed of your journey, but in the depth of your experience.
Leave No Trace
This is a protected landscape. Take all trash with you, including biodegradable items like apple cores or orange peels. They are not natural to this ecosystem and can harm wildlife. Use designated bins or carry a small bag for waste. Respect fences and gatesclose them behind you. Do not pick wildflowers or disturb rock pools.
Tools and Resources
Navigation Apps
- OS Maps (Ordnance Survey) The gold standard for UK hiking and driving. Offers offline maps, elevation profiles, and real-time location tracking. Subscription required, but worth it.
- ViewRanger Excellent for combining walking routes with driving paths. Integrates with Garmin devices.
- Google Maps (Offline Mode) Use only as a backup. It frequently reroutes to unsuitable roads. Download the route in advance.
- Coastal Explorer (iOS/Android) A niche app focused on UK coastal drives, with tide times, parking info, and points of interest.
Weather and Tide Resources
- Met Office Exmoor Forecast Hyperlocal updates for coastal weather. https://www.metoffice.gov.uk
- UK Hydrographic Office Tides Accurate tide predictions for Porlock, Lynmouth, and Watchet. https://www.gov.uk/tide-tables
- Exmoor National Park Authority Real-time road closures, wildlife alerts, and safety notices. https://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk
Vehicle and Safety Equipment
- Full-size spare tire and jack (compact spares are inadequate for rough terrain)
- First aid kit with emergency blanket and thermal wraps
- Flashlight with extra batteries
- Portable phone charger (solar-powered recommended)
- Waterproof jacket and sturdy footwear (even if youre not walking)
- Physical map (OS Explorer OL9 or OL20)
- Emergency contact list: Exmoor Mountain Rescue (01598 750100), local police non-emergency number
Local Guides and Books
- Exmoor Coastal Walks by David G. R. M. Jones A detailed guide to footpaths that parallel the road, ideal for combining driving with short hikes.
- The South West Coast Path: Minehead to Watchet by Chris J. M. Smith Excellent for understanding the topography and history behind the landscape.
- Exmoor National Park Visitor Centres Stop by the one in Lynton or Minehead for free leaflets, maps, and advice from rangers.
Photography Gear Recommendations
- Wide-angle lens (1635mm) for capturing cliffscapes and horizons
- Polarizing filter to reduce glare on water and wet rocks
- Sturdy tripod for low-light coastal shots at dawn/dusk
- Weather-sealed camera bodyhumidity and salt spray are constant
- Extra memory cardstheres no Wi-Fi to upload, and youll take hundreds of shots
Real Examples
Example 1: The Solo Travelers Journey
Emma, a photographer from Manchester, drove the South Exmoor Coast alone in late October. She started at Minehead at 7:30 AM, filled her tank, and followed OS Maps offline. She stopped at Foreland Point at sunrise, capturing mist rising off the sea. At Lynton, she parked in the National Trust lot and walked the cliff path to Lynmouth, returning to her car by 11:00 AM. She avoided the main road between Lynton and Porlock, taking the B3223 instead, which she found quieter and more scenic. At Porlock Weir, she ate a sandwich on the harbor wall while watching fishermen mend nets. She reached Watchet by 3:00 PM, refueled, and returned via the A39. She reported no issues, attributed her success to planning, and said the silence of the coast was the most healing thing Ive experienced in years.
Example 2: The Family Road Trip
The Henderson family from Bristol took their 10-year-old daughter and 75-year-old mother on a two-day coastal drive. They rented a small SUV and packed snacks, books, and a portable speaker for gentle music. They stayed overnight in Lynton at a B&B with parking. The daughter was fascinated by the cliff railway and asked questions about how the trains worked. They used the Exmoor National Park app to find a kid-friendly trail at Combe Martin Beach. Their mother, who had mobility issues, stayed in the car during steep walks but enjoyed the viewpoints. They avoided driving after dark and made sure to stop every 90 minutes. It wasnt the fastest trip, said the father, but it was the most meaningful. We didnt just drivewe connected.
Example 3: The Near-Miss Incident
A group of tourists from Germany ignored warning signs on the B3223 near St. Donats. They attempted to overtake a slow-moving tractor on a blind bend. Their rental car clipped a stone wall, damaging the front axle. They were stranded for four hours until a local farmer noticed and called for help. The road was closed for repairs the next day. The group later wrote a review praising the scenery but admitted they underestimated the road. Their story is now featured on the Exmoor National Park safety page as a cautionary example.
Example 4: The Winter Drive
In January, a local resident from Watchet drove the coast to visit family in Lynmouth. Heavy rain had saturated the cliffs overnight. Near Lynmouth, a small landslide blocked the road. Instead of turning back, he used his OS Maps app to find an alternate route via the A39 and a quiet farm track. He arrived 45 minutes late but safely. He later shared his route on a local Facebook group, helping others avoid the closure. His actions exemplify the value of local knowledge and flexible planning.
FAQs
Can I drive the South Exmoor Coast in a regular car?
Yes, but only if it has adequate ground clearance and good tires. Avoid low sports cars, large RVs, or vehicles with trailers. Stick to the A39 and main B-roads if your vehicle is standard. Avoid unmarked tracks and steep, narrow lanes unless youre confident in your cars capability.
Are there any tolls or fees on the South Exmoor Coast?
No. There are no tolls on any public roads. Some parking areas, particularly those managed by the National Trust, charge a small fee (typically 35). These fees support conservation efforts.
Is it safe to drive the South Exmoor Coast at night?
Its not recommended. Many roads have no streetlights, and wildlifeespecially deer and badgersis active after dark. Fog and mist are common. If you must drive at night, use full beam when safe, reduce speed, and stay alert for sudden movements.
What should I do if I get stuck or break down?
Stay in your vehicle. Turn on hazard lights. Call 999 and ask for Police and mention vehicle breakdown on Exmoor coast road. Provide your exact location using GPS coordinates or a nearby landmark. Do not attempt to push your car or walk long distancesrescue teams are trained for these conditions.
Can I take my dog?
Yes, but keep your dog on a lead near livestock and cliff edges. Many beaches are dog-friendly year-round, but some restrict dogs between April and September. Check local signage. Always clean up after your pet.
Are there any restrictions on photography or drone use?
Photography is encouraged. Drones require a CAA permit and are prohibited in Exmoor National Park without prior authorization. Even with a permit, avoid flying near wildlife, especially nesting seabirds. Violations can result in fines up to 2,500.
Whats the best time of year to drive the South Exmoor Coast?
April to June and September to October offer the best balance of weather, light, and fewer crowds. Winter offers dramatic skies and solitude but requires extra caution. Summer is busiest but ideal for long daylight hours.
Is the South Exmoor Coast suitable for beginners?
If youre new to driving on narrow, winding roads, its not ideal for a first-time experience. Start with the A39 and take shorter sections. Consider a guided tour before attempting the full route alone.
What makes the South Exmoor Coast different from other UK coastal drives?
Unlike the A30 or the Jurassic Coast, the South Exmoor Coast remains largely undeveloped. There are no chain hotels, fast-food outlets, or large parking lots. Its wild, quiet, and deeply connected to the natural rhythms of the land. You wont find crowds or commercialismyoull find authenticity.
Can I camp along the coast?
Camping is not permitted on the roadside. Designated campsites are available at Lynmouth, Lynton, and Minehead. Wild camping is illegal without landowner permission. Respect the law and the landscape.
Conclusion
Driving the South Exmoor Coast is more than a scenic detourits a pilgrimage through one of Englands last wild places. It demands respect, patience, and mindfulness. The cliffs have witnessed centuries of storms, sailors, and solitude. The lanes have carried farmers, poets, and pilgrims. To drive them well is to honor that legacy.
This guide has provided the tools, the steps, and the wisdom to navigate this route safely and meaningfully. But no map can replace presence. Slow down. Look up. Listen to the wind. Let the rhythm of the sea guide your pace. Youre not just passing through Exmooryoure part of its story now.
When you leave, take nothing but photographs. Leave nothing but tire tracksfaint, respectful, and temporary. And if you return, as so many do, youll find the coast unchanged, waiting, as it always has been, to welcome those who come with quiet hearts and open eyes.