How to Drive the Porlock Toll Road

The Porlock Toll Road, a historic and scenic route winding through the dramatic landscapes of Exmoor National Park in Somerset, England, is more than just a passage between villagesits an experience steeped in heritage, natural beauty, and regional character. While often mistaken for a modern highway, this narrow, stone-paved road dates back to the 18th century and was originally constructed as a turnpike to facilitate trade and travel across the rugged moorland. Today, it remains one of the most picturesque and challenging drives in the UK, attracting motorists, photographers, and history enthusiasts alike. Understanding how to navigate this road safely and respectfully is essentialnot only for your own enjoyment but for the preservation of its cultural and environmental integrity.

Unlike conventional toll roads that rely on automated payment systems or electronic tags, the Porlock Toll Road operates under a unique, centuries-old model that blends manual toll collection with community stewardship. The road is maintained by a local trust, and its operation depends on adherence to time-honored customs, seasonal restrictions, and environmental guidelines. Driving it requires more than just a drivers licenseit demands awareness, patience, and a willingness to engage with the landscape and its history.

This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step walkthrough of how to drive the Porlock Toll Road, from pre-trip preparation to post-journey etiquette. Whether youre a local resident, a touring motorist, or a first-time visitor to Exmoor, this tutorial will equip you with the knowledge to traverse the road confidently, responsibly, and in full compliance with its traditions.

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Confirm Road Accessibility and Operating Hours

Before setting out, verify that the Porlock Toll Road is open. Unlike public highways, this route operates seasonally and may be closed due to weather, maintenance, or conservation efforts. The road is typically accessible between late March and early November, with limited or no access during winter months due to ice, landslides, and reduced daylight. Check the official Exmoor National Park Authority website or the Porlock Toll Road Trusts daily updates for real-time status.

Operating hours are strictly enforced: vehicles may enter between 7:00 AM and 6:00 PM from April to September, and between 8:00 AM and 5:00 PM from October to March. No vehicles are permitted after dark, as the road lacks lighting and poses significant hazards without daylight. Always plan your arrival with ample time to complete the journey before closing.

2. Prepare Your Vehicle

The Porlock Toll Road is a narrow, winding route with steep gradients, sharp bends, and uneven surfaces. It is not suitable for large vehicles, trailers, or vehicles with low ground clearance. Ensure your vehicle meets the following criteria:

• Length under 5.5 meters (18 feet)
• Width under 2 meters (6.5 feet)
• Minimum ground clearance of 15 cm (6 inches)
• Good tire tread depth (minimum 3 mm)
• Functional brakes and lights

Check your fuel levelthere are no service stations along the route. Fill up in Porlock or Lynmouth before departure. Carry a spare tire, jack, and basic toolkit. The road surface includes sections of exposed bedrock and loose gravel, which can cause punctures. Avoid using rental cars unless explicitly permitted by the rental agreement; many companies prohibit driving on toll roads due to liability concerns.

3. Understand the Toll System

The toll for the Porlock Toll Road is not paid electronically. Instead, it is collected manually at the historic toll house located approximately 1.2 kilometers from the western entrance near Porlock Weir. The toll is 3.50 per vehicle, payable in cash only (GBP). Credit cards, mobile payments, and contactless systems are not accepted.

There is no automated barrier or gate. A toll keeper, often a local volunteer, will be present during operating hours to collect payment and record your vehicle details. You will receive a small wooden token as proof of paymentkeep this with you for the duration of your journey. This token may be requested by park wardens during random inspections.

Motorcycles and bicycles are exempt from the toll but must still register at the toll house. Pedestrians are welcome and may use the footpath alongside the road.

4. Enter from the Correct Direction

The Porlock Toll Road runs between Porlock Weir and Lynmouth. It is a one-way road for motor vehicles during peak season (MaySeptember) to reduce congestion and enhance safety. During this period, vehicles must enter from the Porlock Weir end and exit at Lynmouth. This restriction is enforced by signage and physical bollards at the Lynmouth end.

In the off-season (OctoberApril), the road becomes two-way, but traffic is extremely limited. If you attempt to enter from the Lynmouth end during peak season, you will be turned away. Always follow directional signage and heed the instructions of the toll keeper.

5. Navigate the Road with Caution

The road spans approximately 5.8 kilometers and takes between 15 and 25 minutes to drive, depending on conditions. It features 17 sharp hairpin turns, narrow sections where two vehicles cannot pass, and sections with no guardrails. Visibility is often limited by dense hedgerows and mist common in Exmoor.

Key driving tips:

• Drive slowlyspeed limit is 15 mph (24 km/h) throughout.
• Use low gear on steep inclines and descents to avoid brake overheating.
• Never stop on bends or blind crests. If you need to pull over, use designated pull-out areas marked by stone markers.
• Yield to oncoming traffic when necessary. The vehicle closer to the nearest pull-out should reverse if space is insufficient.
• Watch for livestocksheep, ponies, and cattle frequently cross the road. Slow down and stop if animals are present.
• Do not overtake other vehicles. Overtaking is prohibited and dangerous due to limited sightlines.

Use your headlights during the day, even in clear weather. The road is often shadowed by cliffs and trees, and visibility can drop suddenly. Fog can roll in without warning, especially near the summit.

6. Exit at Lynmouth and Return

Upon reaching Lynmouth, you will exit onto the A39 coastal road. There is no return route via the Porlock Toll Road for motor vehicles. To return to Porlock, you must drive the longer route via the A39 and B3227, which takes approximately 45 minutes.

Do not attempt to turn around on the toll road. There are no U-turns permitted, and reversing is strictly prohibited except in emergencies. If you miss your exit or need to return, contact the toll keeper via the emergency phone located at the Lynmouth end. They can advise on alternative routes or assist with logistics.

7. Return the Toll Token

When you return to Porlock, you must return your wooden toll token to the Porlock Village Information Centre or the Porlock Post Office during business hours. This is not a fee refundit is a requirement for inventory control and historical record-keeping. Failure to return the token may result in your vehicle being flagged in the system, potentially leading to restrictions on future access.

Many visitors choose to keep the token as a souvenir. If you wish to do so, you may purchase a replica token for 2 at the Information Centre. Original tokens are not for sale.

Best Practices

Respect the Environment

The Porlock Toll Road traverses a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and part of Exmoor National Park. Littering, off-road driving, and disturbing wildlife are not only unethical but illegal. Carry all trash with you. Do not leave food wrappers, bottles, or packagingeven biodegradable items can attract animals and disrupt natural behavior.

Stay on the designated road surface. Walking or driving off the paved section damages fragile heathland and moss-covered rock formations that take decades to recover. Use marked footpaths if you wish to explore the surrounding landscape.

Minimize Noise and Disturbance

Exmoor is a Dark Sky Reserve, and quiet is part of its appeal. Avoid revving engines, using loud exhausts, or playing music at high volume. The road is popular with walkers, cyclists, and birdwatchers who value tranquility. Keep conversations low and avoid using horns unless absolutely necessary for safety.

Travel in Small Groups

While the road permits multiple vehicles, large convoys or tour buses are discouraged. Limit your group to no more than three vehicles traveling together. If youre part of a larger group, stagger departures by 1015 minutes to avoid congestion and reduce environmental impact.

Check Weather Conditions Daily

Exmoors weather changes rapidly. Even in summer, rain, mist, and sudden wind gusts are common. Check the Met Office forecast for Porlock and Lynmouth before departure. If visibility is below 100 meters or if heavy rain is predicted, postpone your journey. The road becomes hazardous under wet conditions due to mudslides and reduced traction.

Know Your Limits

If you are uncomfortable driving narrow, winding roads, or if you suffer from motion sickness, consider walking the route instead. The Porlock Toll Road has a well-maintained footpath that offers equally stunning views and is accessible to most fitness levels. The walk takes approximately 23 hours and is marked with wayfinding stones.

Support Local Conservation

The toll revenue funds road maintenance, erosion control, and wildlife protection. Consider making an additional voluntary donation at the toll house to support the Exmoor Heritage Trust. Donations are used to repair drainage systems, replant native hedges, and maintain historic milestones.

Photography Etiquette

The road offers countless photo opportunitiesfrom panoramic moorland vistas to the iconic stone toll house. However, do not stop in the middle of the road to take pictures. Use designated viewpoints marked with wooden signs. If youre with a passenger, ask them to take photos while you drive. Never use a selfie stick or tripod on the road surface.

Tools and Resources

Official Websites

Always refer to authoritative sources for accurate information:

• Exmoor National Park Authority www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk
• Porlock Toll Road Trust www.porlocktollroad.org.uk
• Met Office Porlock Forecast www.metoffice.gov.uk

These sites provide real-time road status, weather alerts, conservation updates, and downloadable maps.

Mobile Applications

While mobile reception is limited along the road, download these apps before departure:

• OS Maps Download offline maps of Exmoor, including the toll road and surrounding trails.
• Windy Monitor wind speed and fog patterns critical for visibility.
• Google Maps Use for navigation to the toll house entrance, but do not rely on it for live routing on the road itself.

Physical Resources

At the Porlock Village Information Centre, pick up a free printed guide that includes:

• A detailed topographic map of the road
• Historical notes on each bend and landmark
• A list of nearby walking trails
• A checklist for vehicle readiness

These guides are updated quarterly and include QR codes linking to audio tours and historical recordings.

Emergency Contacts

In case of breakdown or emergency:

• Toll House Emergency Phone: 01643 842110 (available 7 AM7 PM)
• Exmoor National Park Ranger Service: 01643 821550
• Police (non-emergency): 101
• Mountain Rescue (Exmoor): 01643 842110 (same as toll house)

There is no cellular coverage between the toll house and the Lynmouth end. Use the emergency phone located at the toll house and at the Lynmouth end. These are landline phones connected directly to the ranger service.

Recommended Gear

Even in summer, carry:

• Warm layers (temperatures drop significantly at higher elevations)
• Water and non-perishable snacks
• Flashlight or headlamp (in case of unexpected delays)
• First aid kit
• Map and compass (as backup to digital tools)

Do not rely solely on GPS. Signal loss is common, and the road is not always accurately represented on consumer mapping apps.

Real Examples

Example 1: The Photographers Journey

Emma, a landscape photographer from Bristol, planned a solo trip to capture sunrise over the Porlock Toll Road. She arrived at 6:30 AM, just before opening, and waited at the toll house with a thermos of tea. After paying the toll, she drove slowly, stopping only at designated viewpoints. She captured images of mist rolling over the moor, the stone toll house in golden light, and a family of red deer crossing the road at dawn.

She returned the token the next day and donated 10 to the Exmoor Heritage Trust. She later published her photo series online, crediting the trust for preserving the road. Her post went viral among UK photography communities, leading to increased awareness and responsible tourism.

Example 2: The Family Outing

The Patel family from Cardiff brought their 2018 Honda Jazz to experience the road. Their children, aged 8 and 11, were excited by the idea of a toll road. The parents ensured the car met size requirements and packed snacks and games for the 45-minute drive back via the A39.

At the toll house, the children watched the keeper collect the payment and received a small wooden horse as a gift for being well-behaved. They later helped their parents return the token. The family returned the next year with their grandparents, who remembered driving the same road in the 1970s.

Example 3: The Misguided Tourist

A rental car from London, a large SUV with a trailer, attempted to enter the road during peak season. The driver ignored the warning signs and was turned away by the toll keeper. When he attempted to reverse, he damaged the roads edge, causing a minor landslip. The rental company was billed 850 for repairs, and the driver was banned from the road for five years.

This incident was documented in the trusts annual report and now appears in their orientation video shown to all first-time visitors.

Example 4: The Volunteer Keeper

Arthur, a retired schoolteacher from Lynmouth, has volunteered as a toll keeper for 17 years. He records every vehicle, shares stories of the roads history, and teaches visitors about local wildlife. He once helped a lost cyclist find their way after a breakdown and later received a letter from the cyclists family thanking him for saving their sons holiday.

Arthurs dedication exemplifies the spirit of the Porlock Toll Road: it is not just a road, but a living community project.

FAQs

Can I drive a motorhome on the Porlock Toll Road?

No. Motorhomes and campervans exceeding 5.5 meters in length are prohibited due to the roads narrow width and sharp turns. Even smaller campervans must be confirmed as compliant before entry.

Is the toll road open on public holidays?

Yes, the road is typically open on public holidays within its operating season. However, hours may be reduced on Christmas Day, New Years Day, and Easter Sunday. Always check the official website before traveling on holidays.

Can I ride a bicycle on the Porlock Toll Road?

Yes. Cyclists are welcome and exempt from the toll. However, they must yield to vehicles and follow the same rules: no overtaking, stay on the designated path, and use lights at dawn/dusk. The road is popular with mountain bikers during the off-season.

What happens if I miss the toll payment?

If you drive past the toll house without paying, your vehicle registration will be recorded. You will receive a letter within 14 days requesting payment. Failure to pay within 30 days results in a 25 administrative fee and possible future access denial.

Are electric vehicles allowed?

Yes. Electric vehicles are permitted and encouraged. There are no charging stations on the road, so ensure your vehicle has sufficient charge for the round trip via the A39. Regenerative braking is recommended for the steep descents.

Can I take my dog on the road?

Yes, dogs are welcome if kept on a leash at all times. There are no designated dog waste stations, so please carry waste bags and dispose of them in bins at Porlock or Lynmouth.

Is the road suitable for driving in winter?

Generally, no. The road is closed from November to March due to ice, snow, and risk of rockfall. Even if it appears clear, hidden frost patches and mudslides make it unsafe. The trust does not grit or salt the road during winter months.

Can I film a commercial on the Porlock Toll Road?

Commercial filming requires a permit from the Exmoor National Park Authority. Contact their media team at least six weeks in advance. Personal filming for social media is permitted without permission, as long as no equipment obstructs the road.

Why is the toll only 3.50?

The toll has remained unchanged since 2005 to preserve accessibility. The cost covers only basic maintenance. Additional funding comes from donations, grants, and volunteer labor. The low price reflects the communitys commitment to heritage preservation over profit.

What if I get stuck on the road?

Do not attempt to push or maneuver your vehicle alone. Use the emergency phone at the nearest marker. Rangers are trained to assist with vehicle recovery and can dispatch help within 30 minutes during operating hours. Do not leave your vehicle unless instructed.

Conclusion

Driving the Porlock Toll Road is not merely a transit experienceit is a passage through time, landscape, and community. Unlike modern highways designed for speed and efficiency, this road invites slowness, mindfulness, and respect. Its value lies not in its distance or destination, but in the way it connects people to a landscape that has changed little in 250 years.

By following the steps outlined in this guide, you become not just a driver, but a steward of a living heritage. The toll you pay is not just monetaryit is a commitment to preserve the roads integrity for future generations. Whether you come for the views, the history, or the quiet solitude, your actions on this road matter.

As you drive the winding lanes, listen to the wind through the gorse, watch the ponies graze on the hillside, and feel the stone beneath your tires. This is not just a road. It is a storywritten in gravel, stone, and the quiet dedication of those who keep it alive.

Drive wisely. Pay the toll. Return the token. Leave no trace. And when you reach Lynmouth, pause for a momentnot just to admire the view, but to honor the journey.